The Cook's Atelier

White veal stock

white veal stock

makes about 2 quarts

5 pounds veal bones

1 calf's foot , split 

5 quarts cold water

2 cups leeks, white and light green part only, cut into 1-inch pieces

2 cups onions, cut into 1-inch pieces

small punch of Italian parsley sprigs

2 bay leaves

5 sprigs of thyme

Rinse the veal bones in cold water and place the bones and the calf's foot in a large stockpot.  Add enough cold water to come three quarters of the way up the sides of the stockpot.  There should be at least twice as much water as there are bones.  Slowly bring the water to a simmer.  As the liquid is being brought to a simmer, skim off the scum that rises to the surface.  As soon as the liquid comes to a simmer, remove it from the heat.

Drain the bones in a large colander.  Rinse the bones well, until there is no film left on them.  It is very important the bones be rinsed thoroughly to remove any impurities, which would cloud the stock.

Clean the pot and return the bones to it.  Add the cold water and slowly bring the water to a simmer, skimming frequently.  Once it is at a simmer, add the leeks, onions and herbs and continue to simmer for 4 hours, skimming frequently to remove the impurities.

Turn off the heat and allow the stock to rest for 10 minutes.  Use a ladle to remove the stock from the pot and strain it into a container.  Discard any stock toward the bottom of the pot that is cloudy.

Fill the sink with ice water and place the container in it to cool down the stock rapidly.  Stir occasionally until there are no traces of steam.  Refrigerate the stock for 1 or 2 days, or freeze in several containers for longer storage.

The cook's basics: chicken stock

This is the stock that we always keep on hand for most of our soups, risotto, beans, sauces and our braising dishes.  We happen to fall in the category of cooks who prefer using whole chickens rather than using backs, necks and wing tips for stock.  We think it is worth the investment as stock made using whole chickens just simply tastes better.

As with all stocks, the goal is to remove impurities while extracting as much flavor and gelatin as possible from the bones, vegetables and herbs.  Always start your stock with cold water and pay attention to the coverage, more so than the actual measurement of the water.  Bring the stock slowly up to heat and maintain a gentle heat for over a long period time and skim, skim, skim.

chicken stock

for 8 to 10 cups

One 5 1/2-pound chicken, preferably pasture raised

About 4 quarts cold water (to cover)

2 large carrots cut into 2-inch chunks

2 large leeks cut into 2-inch chunks, white and light green parts only, carefully washed

1 large yellow onion, root end trimmed flat, peeled, and quartered

1 stalk celery, leaves trimmed off and cut into 2-inch chunks

1 bay leaf

3 or 4 sprigs of fresh thyme

Remove the giblets from the chicken.  Rinse the chicken to remove any blood. This is very important for the clarification of the stock.  If you don't,  your stock will be cloudy.  Remove the breasts using your boning knife and save for another use. Slash the thigh and leg muscles to enable more flavor to be released during cooking.  Place the chicken in a deep 8- to 10-quart stockpot that holds the chicken snugly.  Add the water. Bring to a simmer over high heat and skim the foam.  Stir the chicken under once to allow the last of the foam to rise.  Reduce the heat and continue to skim.  Add the vegetables and herbs and slowly bring the liquid back to a simmer, skimming frequently. Once the stock has a bright, chickeny flavor, usually about 4 hours, turn off the heat and allow the stock to rest for 10 minutes to allow any particles left in the stock to settle to the bottom of the stockpot.

Prepare an ice bath.  Set a chinois or fine-mesh stainer over a container large enough to hold the stock.  Use a ladle to transfer the stock from the pot to the stainer and strain into the container.  Do not press on the solids in the strainer or force through any liquid that does not pass on its own; otherwise the stock will be cloudy.  Discard any stock that is cloudy with impurities that settle near the bottom of the stockpot.

Place the container in the ice bath to cool the stock rapidly.  Stir occasionally until there is no longer any steam rising from container.  The stock can be stored in the refrigerator for up to 3 days, or freeze for longer storage.